Chasing the Northern Lights: A Bucket List Experience
Published: April 9, 2026
To my absolute delight, I recently crossed a major bucket list item off my list. I have been interested in the Northern Lights since seeing them featured in a Paul Bunyan cartoon in elementary school. That early curiosity deepened when I visited the McDonald Observatory. My youngest brother, Paul, worked for the Astronomy Department at UT early in his career and helped arrange a visit when I was traveling with friends to the Marfa area. They had a solar telescope that allowed you to view the surface of the sun in real time. It was there that I learned about the active and dormant cycles of the sun—and developed a lasting fascination with tracking them, with the eventual goal of seeing the Aurora Borealis in person.
When I met Jon, who hails from Ketchikan, I thought surely we’d see them during one of our many trips to Alaska. While he has seen them while tug boating for his family’s business during summer vacations in high school, they’ve remained elusive in the areas we frequent most. While they are likely dancing across the winter skies near Ketchikan, the persistent cloud cover makes them difficult to catch. They do appear—but not for me, at least not yet.
Planning the Journey
I began researching Northern Lights trips and found a wide range of options. Some were quite compelling, like a small Norwegian cruise. However, after reading reviews, many travelers noted that the villages visited had little activity, and navigating icy, snow-covered streets felt uncomfortable and, at times, unsafe. So, I decided to continue my search.
Based on the science, certain regions in North America offer more favorable viewing conditions. While still far north, these areas tend to have clearer skies in the fall and spring compared to many European locations—and as I had learned, clear skies are essential.
I finally got serious last year, knowing solar activity was reaching peak levels and would remain strong through 2026. A friend had traveled with Nat Hab and spoke highly of the experience, despite not seeing much activity. I chose not to let that deter me.
I selected a week just before the spring equinox—widely considered an optimal time—and ultimately chose Churchill, Manitoba. It sits just beneath the auroral oval, making it one of the best places in the world for viewing. When I spoke with Nat Hab, they confirmed everything I had learned, while also reminding me that there are no guarantees—you could complete the entire trip without seeing the lights. Still, I decided it was worth the chance and booked the journey.
Winnipeg also proudly celebrates its railroad history. Former switching stations and warehouses have been transformed into a vibrant food hall with shops, restaurants, and historic rail displays. I found myself returning daily to The Forks for coffee, lunch, and a bit of browsing. My second evening in Winnipeg included a welcome dinner with Nat Hab, where I met our guide, Eleanor, and the rest of the group. There were fourteen of us, and from the start, the group dynamic felt easy and well aligned.
Winnipeg: A Thoughtful Arrival
I flew into Winnipeg a day early, accounting for winter travel delays and allowing time to explore the city. We stayed at the historic Fort Garry Hotel, originally built to serve Canada’s rail system. Given the vast distances, these hotels were designed as refined places to rest and recharge.
I was immediately taken by its chateau-style architecture—the only one of its kind in the city. Along with beautifully appointed rooms and a grand ballroom, the hotel offers access to Yoga Public, a nearby studio. I attended a hot flow class and can confidently say that hot yoga feels especially welcome in colder climates.
The hotel is also home to TEN Spa, which offers traditional hamam experiences. I booked the Hamam 101, guided by an attendant through each step. After relaxing with tea and moving between cold and warm showers, I entered the steam-filled hamam and began with exfoliation. I then lay on a heated marble slab while warm water was poured over me—an unexpectedly calming and immersive experience. The treatment concluded with a massage, additional steam, and a luxurious hair wash using olive oil shampoo. I left feeling completely restored.
I had also been encouraged not to miss the Canadian Museum for Human Rights, and it proved to be well worth the visit. The building itself is architecturally striking, with thoughtfully curated exhibits and beautifully integrated spaces for gathering and reflection. An indoor garden made of basalt “logs” and sweeping views from the top level made the experience even more memorable.
Heading North to Churchill
The following morning, we departed for Churchill—a town of just 900 residents, originally established by the Hudson Bay Company in the early 1700s.
Accommodations were simple, reminiscent of small lodges in Alaska: no frills, but warm hospitality, good food, and reliable heat. That last detail cannot be overstated—we experienced temperatures as low as -34°F, with wind chills dipping into the -50s.
While the cold was intense, the gear provided was highly effective. You do, however, need to be mindful of exposed skin. And despite my best efforts, I never found gloves that worked with my phone—I likely flirted with frost nip nightly thanks to my inability to stop taking photos.
Life in the Arctic
Our days were thoughtfully structured, offering a balance of activity and cultural immersion. We experienced dog mushing, participated in an art class, visited the local museum, and explored both the frozen Hudson Bay and Churchill River.
We were also fortunate with wildlife sightings. Arctic animals can be remarkably camouflaged, but we spotted Arctic hares, Arctic foxes, a red fox, a cross fox, and two varieties of ptarmigan during our visit.
The Northern Lights Experience
Each evening, after dinner, we layered up—eventually mastering the routine—and headed out around 8 p.m. in search of the lights.
We were incredibly fortunate. On our very first night, around 9 p.m., the sky came alive. I had no idea how many formations existed—curtains, rays, coronas—and we experienced over an hour of dancing coronas overhead.
It was everything I had imagined and more. A true childhood dream, realized.
And for anyone wondering—we were not standing outside in the cold the entire time. Nat Hab created incredibly comfortable viewing environments, complete with fires, heat, warm drinks, snacks, and thoughtfully designed spaces.
It was glamping, in the most northern sense.
If anything, the most challenging part was getting fully dressed, only to realize you’d forgotten a layer and had to start over.
Unique Places to Take It All In
Throughout the trip, we experienced several thoughtfully designed viewing environments. The Aurora Pod and Cabin offered cozy, intimate settings, while Wapusk Adventures hosted us for dog mushing and another memorable evening of aurora viewing—this time in both a cabin and a teepee.
Our final night was spent at the Aurora Lounge, a beautifully designed space with a Scandinavian aesthetic, featuring a glass-ceiling upper level and a lower viewing deck.
Photos courtesy of Nat Hab | Photo credit: Giulia Ciampini (pod & lounge) & Sabina Moll (cabin)
A Trip Worth Taking—Twice
As you can see, I was absolutely thrilled with my trip. From history and indigenous cultures to glorious nature and design inspiration, I found it all. Interestingly, Churchill is also the polar bear capital of the world during the fall season. It may warrant a second trip!
We are off to our next design project.
Fondly,
Pamela Hope Designs
Meet Pamela
A LUXURY INTERIOR DESIGNER IN HOUSTON
Pamela O’Brien is the founder of Pamela Hope Designs in Houston, Texas. Pamela is an award-winning luxury interior designer, writer, and speaker. Prior to founding Pamela Hope Designs, Pamela served as a spokesperson in media and public affairs, working with media outlets like Dateline NBC and 48 Hours. This experience allowed her to travel the world and furthered her love for travel, culture, and interior design. After attending an executive course at the Harvard Graduate School of Design, Pamela launched her own interior design firm full-time. Pamela is known for building strong relationships with her clients, who later become friends and collaborators. She is highly influential in the Houston interior design space and shows no signs of slowing down.
Meet Danna
A LUXURY INTERIOR DESIGNER IN HOUSTON
Danna Smith has more than 30 years of experience in the design industry. She has been a buyer and merchandiser for four luxury showrooms in Houston and Dallas. Smith teaches an evening course at Houston Community College to nurture her passion for developing future design stars. Since joining Pamela Hope Designs in 2015, she has worked on some of her most beautiful and innovative projects yet.